We arrived in Vals, Switzerland late yesterday evening, after a bit of a harrowing journey that included 6 train changes, an additional 3 hours and a bus to our hotel once we were informed that the mountain pass we had intended to take was snowed in. We were hungry and tired, but nevertheless we made it here!
Vals has been on my bucket list since my time at SAIT. I was first introduced to the architect Peter Zumthor by two of my favourite instructors, and now friends of both Case and I, Jesse and Laura Hindle. I can clearly remember the lecture they gave where they showed photos and described the respect and dignity in which a material can be used to produce not only a visual experience, but a full sensory one in every way, like that of the Therme Vals by Zumthor. So forgive me as I completely rave about this place, as it has not only fulfilled my desire to see it, but instead has exceeded every notion that I thought it would be like.
Let's start with the locker rooms, as Case was already impressed by those alone. Shiny lacquered deep cherry wood doors were accessed and locked by your watch-like wristband given to you at reception. Very "James Bond", as he described it. Robes and towels were provided and we made our way out into the baths.
The local Valser Quarzite slabs that covered every surface flooded our view, pierced by ribbons of natural light in the concrete ceiling and cascaded down these rough-hewn walls in thin slices. The sound of water gently lapping against the stone filled our ears. Gently padding down the wide run staircase we made our way to the first pool. It was an adventure right from the beginning; seven different caverns with varying degrees of temperature are layered throughout the space. The first one we waded in to led us to a point of compression, and light filtered out through a small opening, beckoning us to explore further. Jets formed small whirlpools in this blissfully cavernous space that we had discovered underneath the mass of stone. Zumthor describes it best when he said, "The meander, as we call it, is a designed negative space between the blocks, a space that connects everything as it flows throughout the entire building, creating a peacefully pulsating rhythm. Moving around this space means making discoveries. You are walking as if in the woods. Everyone there is looking for a path of their own." We couldn't wait to find more.
A small doorway around a corner enticed us and led us gently down several stairs into pleasantly warm and fragrant water, which is filled with thousands of suspended flower petals; another opening in the mass of stone illuminated in red had us pursue 42℃ waters, much to the tingling protests of our feet and legs from the prior blue room of water set at 14℃. It's hard to describe the otherworldly feeling we had for the entirety of our time in these spaces. The interior is carefully curated, so that no matter what, every view you have is framed intentionally or denied to you, which makes you continue to search for more. The pools weren't the only aspect of the thermal baths either, as the steam room was another experience entirely. Black walls engulfed us as we entered the first chamber, pushing forward through heavy black curtains we entered another chamber, this time warmer than the last and filled with more steam. A single stream of yellow light diffused through the mist in the middle of the room and took us to the last pitch black room, filled with menthol-scented steam and permitting you to only smell and feel the space around you. The steam was both lung-clearing and prohibiting the longer you stayed in that final space, and seeking relief was easy as you slowly made your way back towards the light and the sound of running water. A sound room was also tucked away in a niche of rock; lying down you were surrounded by benign rhythms and sounds, echoing 180° around your head and body.
These baths are truly a wonder, and I hope that everyone gets to experience this type of wonder and relaxation some day. There is so much more that I can't even put in to words, and pictures just do not do it justice. It really is a full sensory experience that leaves you feeling languid and peaceful.
Note: you're not technically allowed any phones or cameras in the space, so majority of these images are taken from ArchDaily and other Google Image sources.
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